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1. I’ve always been told to ventilate my attic as much as possible — Why don’t I have to ventilate with LaPolla FoamLok?
2. Is LaPolla FoamLok Toxic?
3. Is LaPolla FoamLok a Fire Hazard?
4. Do I need a Vapor Barrier with LaPolla FoamLok?
5. How can R-20 of LaPolla FoamLok outperform R-38 of fiberglass?
6. Why would I pay twice as much for LaPolla FoamLokFoamLok when I could just use Fiberglass Instead?
7. Can my house be “too tight”?
8. What if I need to run a wire behind the wall in the future?
9. Why Don’t more Builders use LaPolla FoamLok?
10. Which product is better, open cell foam or closed cell foam?

1. I’ve always been told to ventilate my attic as much as possible — Why don’t I have to ventilate with FoamLok?

Ventilation is only necessary because of the shortcomings of fiberglass and cellulose insulation.  These are fibrous insulators whose physical design literally lets air go right through them.  If you don’t ventilate an attic that has fiberglass or cellulose insulation, heat will build up in the attic causing snowmelt (which leads to ice damming) and condensation (which leads to mold growth).

When applied to the underside of the roof, ventilation with FoamLok is completely useless. Because of foam insulation’s air seal and efficiency, the dew point (the temperature at which water vapor condenses) on the surface of the foam will never be reached so long as the thickness of the foam is proper for your weather conditions.

Another reason ventilation has been used in attics is to keep the underside of the roof shingles cool so they won’t curl due to heat stress.  Research has shown that nearly 100% of the cause is the color of the shingle more than the cooling of the bottom side of the shingle.  Also, with an underside of the roof application of FoamLok the underside of the roof sheathing is now insulated and is within a few degrees of the top of the roof.  No material degradation of shingle life will occur with foam.

2. Is FoamLok Toxic?

Cured polyurethane foam is NOT toxic.  However, when the foam is being applied we are basically making a plastic and thus, there are hazardous chemicals involved.  Within a half hour of application and with proper ventilation there are no hazardous fumes present in the building.  After curing it is an inert plastic that will last hundreds of years.

3. Is FoamLok a Fire Hazard?

No, FoamLok is not a fire hazard.  About 15% of its components are fire retardants.  Its flame spread and smoke developed index are less than 25 and 450, respectively, which are the magic numbers for building code acceptance.  In fact, FoamLok’s burn test results allow it to be installed in attics and crawl spaces without being covered by a thermal barrier.  If you were to try to light FoamLok on fire it would simply melt and char.  Once you took the flame source away it would self-extinguish.  The toxins given off when FoamLok burns are less than those given off by burning wood.

4. Do I need a Vapor Barrier with FoamLok?

Usually no.  FoamLok 2000 closed cell foam is a vapor barrier.  FoamLok 500 is somewhat less of a vapor barrier, but its moisture permeability properties in our climate are sufficient for most structures.  Our building science professionals can advise you as to which type of foam is best for your project.  Since both of these products are air barriers, the conditions for cold and warm air to mix, condense, and cause moisture problems, do not exist if installed properly.

5. How can R-20 of FoamLok outperform R-38 of fiberglass?

R-Value is one of the most misused and misunderstood measurements in the world.  The test results are determined in a 75-degree (F) lab with no wind load and ideal humidity.  In such conditions the two insulation types are identical with respect to heat transfer.  Unfortunately, insulation isn’t needed in those conditions.  However, once the insulation is installed in a home in real world conditions, the heat loss/gain of fiberglass and cellulose are outrageous since cold and warm air freely move about them through convection.  FoamLok is an air barrier AND it is physically adhered to the wood framing members of a structure thus minimizing air infiltration.  Think of fiberglass as a screen and FoamLok as a window.  Coincidentally, most furnace filters are made from fiberglass.  These filters are obviously designed to allow the free movement of air through them.

6. Why would I pay twice as much for FoamLok when I could just use Fiberglass Instead?

One has to look at the complete cost of something they are putting into their house before making a decision.  The cost of insulation is small compared to the ongoing heating and cooling costs of your home after you move in.  Since your energy use is cut in half with FoamLok anyone can do the math and realize that after about five years the cost of insulation, heating fuel, and electricity for cooling is the same for both FoamLok foam and fiberglass.  After that time your energy savings with FoamLok will put cash in your pocket every year.  That’s why we call fiberglass the $30,000 mistake!

7. Can my house be “Too Tight”?

Yes it can, but it’s highly unlikely, especially in the windy climates of the northeastern United States.  Wood framed homes will always have some small gaps and cracks no matter how well they are framed or insulated.  Windows will also have small amounts of air infiltration.  Whenever a door is opened to the outside of the home air exchange occurs.  Our position is that you only get one chance to insulate a new home.  If you under-insulate you will regret it for as long as you live in your home because you can’t fix it.  In the event that you over-insulate and make the house too tight, the situation can be remedied with low cost ventilation.  The motto in the foam industry is “insulate tight and ventilate right.”

8. What if I need to run a wire behind the wall in the future?

This is the one area where we can’t say FoamLok is better than fiberglass.  In the rare event that you need to run a wire down an exterior wall it can be done with FoamLok, but it is more difficult than just slipping it between the fiberglass and drywall.  A wire can be forced down a wall with open cell foam (our most commonly used product) or it can be drilled through using very long drill bits from the attic or basement.  No matter how you look at it, any expense you have to go through to run a wire down a foamed wall will pale in comparison to the money you will save on energy costs with FoamLok.

9. Why Don’t more Builders use FoamLok?

The home building industry is a very competitive one.  In metro Buffalo alone there are nearly 200 companies/individuals that will build a home for you.  The initial cost of foam insulation typically adds $5,000 to a new home.  Since most customers of a given home builder aren’t aware of foam insulation and its long term cost savings, they will simply see that the price of builder A’s house is $5,000 more than builder B.  They will go with the lower cost builder because they perceive that they are getting the same product.  What the customer doesn’t typically understand (and may never realize) is that the extra $5,000 they spend will pay for itself in energy savings in 3-5 years.

When it comes to items like insulation, furnaces, and windows, it’s important to remember that there are two components to the cost.  The initial cost of the products and the ongoing costs of operating your home (heating and cooling costs).  Remember that a homebuilder is only involved in half of that equation.  His customer has sole responsibility for paying for heating and cooling costs for the life of the home.  As long as his customer finds their home to be “acceptable” the builder is happy.  At some point in the future fiberglass will become an “unacceptable” product to use for insulating a home in the eyes of the public in general.  At that time builders will make foam insulation standard.  That being said, we have never come across a builder who refused to use foam if their customer wanted to use it.  If your builder refuses to put foam in your house you should fire them because they aren’t acting in your best interest.  There are many more factors than meets the eye when it comes to builders.  For a more thorough discussion of builders and foam see the paper Why Doesn't my Builder Use Foam? on this website.  

10. Which product is better, open cell foam or closed cell foam?

We know this will probably confuse you more, but it depends.  Although some may try to convince you, there is no universal answer.  It depends on numerous factors regarding your project, most importantly those of available space in a cavity to be insulated and the moisture environment.  Our paper Open Cell vs Closed Cell we discuss these factors in more detail.  In western New York, open cell foam can be used in most projects.  As usual, our highly experienced professionals can give you a recommendation.